Our autumn photoshoot with John Gionleka took place on one of London's hottest days of the year, with temperatures reaching 35°C. We were still holding onto summer, photographing three bonus late-summer recipes alongside the day's planned dishes, but as the fennel began to caramelise, spices filled the kitchen and lamb slowly roasted in the oven, autumn's flavours soon took over. John's four recipes take us naturally from the season's last lighter days to the generous, comforting cooking we begin to crave as the days grow cooler, with a Little Olive Oil extra virgin olive oil carefully paired with each dish.
Red Mullet with Saffron and Marsala Fennel
John's Red Mullet with Saffron and Marsala Fennel is a lovely bridge between summer and autumn. Delicate red mullet, which is in season from May through November, is pan-fried in Little Olive Oil Trio Select extra virgin olive oil and served with softly caramelised fennel cooked with sweet Marsala and fragrant saffron stock. Trio Select's smooth, delicate character complements the fish without dominating it, while a crisp Baby Gem, radish and monk's beard salad keeps the plate fresh. The fennel, saffron and Marsala introduce the warmer flavours of the season ahead.
Cured Sardines with Esme Salad
As we move further into autumn, John's Cured Sardines with Esme Salad bring a little more smoke and depth to the table. Sardines remain in season from June through October and are briefly cured with ginger, lemon and thyme before being preserved in Little Olive Oil Kalinjot Pure extra virgin olive oil and lightly charred just before serving. Paired with an Esme salad of charred aubergine, red pepper, courgette, onion and tomatoes with fresh herbs and pomegranate molasses, it holds onto the colour of summer while introducing smoky, richer flavours that feel so right as autumn begins.
Pot-Roasted Chicken with Yoghurt and Extra Virgin Olive Oil Velouté
John's Pot-Roasted Chicken with Yoghurt and Extra Virgin Olive Oil Velouté firmly enters the realm of comforting autumn cooking. The chicken is gently pot-roasted with vegetables, and its cooking liquor is blended with strained yoghurt and Little Olive Oil Trio Select extra virgin olive oil to create a smooth, creamy velouté. A final drizzle of extra virgin olive oil adds richness and contrast to the finished plate. It's warming and generous without feeling heavy, exactly the sort of dish to come home to as the evenings draw in.
Slow-Roasted Spiced Lamb Shoulder
And then there is John's idea of Sunday lunch. His Slow-Roasted Spiced Lamb Shoulder is made for an afternoon when nobody needs to rush: lamb seasoned generously with lemon, cumin, oregano, red chilli and Urfa black chilli, drizzled with Little Olive Oil Koroneiki Superior extra virgin olive oil and left to slow-roast until beautifully tender. Served with a bubbling Swiss chard gratin made with Greek yoghurt, Pecorino and Graviera, plus warm pita bread for mopping up the roasting juices, it's John's flavour-packed alternative to the traditional Sunday roast; generous, comforting and made for bringing everyone around the table.
Welcoming Autumn Back to the Table
There is always something comforting about the first proper autumn meal. After months of lighter dishes and eating with the windows open, the return of slow roasting, warming spices, caramelised vegetables and generous plates feels like a change of pace. These four recipes capture that transition beautifully, beginning with the freshness of red mullet and sardines before moving towards creamy pot-roasted chicken and, finally, a slow-roasted lamb shoulder made for a long Sunday lunch. It may have been 35°C outside Peckham Bazaar when we photographed them, but once the spices were in the air and the lamb was roasting, autumn didn't feel quite so far away.
